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	<title>Comments for Grinder Tools</title>
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	<description>Get the best grinder tools deals</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:00:44 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Bench grinder question, are the wheels different? by Tam</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1834/bench-grinder-question-are-the-wheels-different/comment-page-1/#comment-1900</link>
		<dc:creator>Tam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:00:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1900</guid>
		<description>One is for rough and the other for finishing off smooth, But if that is bugging the life out of you, then why dont you change one to be the same as the other</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One is for rough and the other for finishing off smooth, But if that is bugging the life out of you, then why dont you change one to be the same as the other</p>
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		<title>Comment on Bench grinder question, are the wheels different? by Tio</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1834/bench-grinder-question-are-the-wheels-different/comment-page-1/#comment-1899</link>
		<dc:creator>Tio</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:00:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1899</guid>
		<description>you can get different wheels for different material (different hardness&#039;s)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>you can get different wheels for different material (different hardness&#8217;s)</p>
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		<title>Comment on Bench grinder question, are the wheels different? by sensible_man</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1834/bench-grinder-question-are-the-wheels-different/comment-page-1/#comment-1898</link>
		<dc:creator>sensible_man</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:00:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1898</guid>
		<description>Most grinders have two different &quot;grit&quot; wheels on them. One for rough grinding and one for &quot;finishing&quot; or smoother surfacing.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Most grinders have two different &quot;grit&quot; wheels on them. One for rough grinding and one for &quot;finishing&quot; or smoother surfacing.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Bench grinder question, are the wheels different? by bob m</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1834/bench-grinder-question-are-the-wheels-different/comment-page-1/#comment-1897</link>
		<dc:creator>bob m</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 00:00:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1897</guid>
		<description>Each wheel is a different grade of grit. The left is for quickly removing larger amounts of material, the right one for finishing off. Keep dipping the object in water to keep it cool.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Each wheel is a different grade of grit. The left is for quickly removing larger amounts of material, the right one for finishing off. Keep dipping the object in water to keep it cool.</p>
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		<title>Comment on i need info on a carborundum co grinder please? by accybeme</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1820/i-need-info-on-a-carborundum-co-grinder-please/comment-page-1/#comment-1896</link>
		<dc:creator>accybeme</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:38:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1896</guid>
		<description>The earliest record of grinding I could find was Blanchard Grinding who Beginning in 1909-1910 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, as one of the original, grinding equipment manufacturers with their original &quot;soap stone&quot; grinding wheel machines,
So the Machine seems a really early model</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The earliest record of grinding I could find was Blanchard Grinding who Beginning in 1909-1910 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, as one of the original, grinding equipment manufacturers with their original &quot;soap stone&quot; grinding wheel machines,<br />
So the Machine seems a really early model</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do i get rid of stains caused by metal sparks on porcelain? by Flying Dragon</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1816/how-do-i-get-rid-of-stains-caused-by-metal-sparks-on-porcelain/comment-page-1/#comment-1895</link>
		<dc:creator>Flying Dragon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:49:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1895</guid>
		<description>You could try muriatic acid (the same stuff you use to etch concrete) it may or may not dissolve the metal (might take a while). The trouble is, those metal sparks come off so hot they will sometimes melt right into the glaze of the porcelain.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You could try muriatic acid (the same stuff you use to etch concrete) it may or may not dissolve the metal (might take a while). The trouble is, those metal sparks come off so hot they will sometimes melt right into the glaze of the porcelain.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do i get rid of stains caused by metal sparks on porcelain? by Jim</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1816/how-do-i-get-rid-of-stains-caused-by-metal-sparks-on-porcelain/comment-page-1/#comment-1894</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:49:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1894</guid>
		<description>those are not stains, you burned the clear coat with the sparks, unfortunetly theres nothing you can do, other than some light sand paper to scape it off. the local hardware store sell a speacial saw for those type of bolts, any time you use a die grinder cover things around your work area so you don&#039;t damage things.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>those are not stains, you burned the clear coat with the sparks, unfortunetly theres nothing you can do, other than some light sand paper to scape it off. the local hardware store sell a speacial saw for those type of bolts, any time you use a die grinder cover things around your work area so you don&#8217;t damage things.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do i get rid of stains caused by metal sparks on porcelain? by Edgar</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1816/how-do-i-get-rid-of-stains-caused-by-metal-sparks-on-porcelain/comment-page-1/#comment-1893</link>
		<dc:creator>Edgar</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:49:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1893</guid>
		<description>You burned the finnish, nothing you can do to clean it.
You can however get some porcelain touch up paint and cover it.
Apply it with the very tip of a toothpick.
Follow the instructions on the package and you should be ok.
You can get the paint at a home improvement or a D.I.Y. store.

Good luck</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You burned the finnish, nothing you can do to clean it.<br />
You can however get some porcelain touch up paint and cover it.<br />
Apply it with the very tip of a toothpick.<br />
Follow the instructions on the package and you should be ok.<br />
You can get the paint at a home improvement or a D.I.Y. store.</p>
<p>Good luck</p>
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		<title>Comment on Factory-Reconditioned DEWALT D28110R 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder by J. Wayland Eheart</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1802/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-d28110r-4-12-inch-small-angle-grinder/comment-page-1/#comment-1890</link>
		<dc:creator>J. Wayland Eheart</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:49:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1890</guid>
		<description>The grinding wheel that comes with it has a 7/8&quot; arbor hole, but the grinder arbor is 5/8.&quot; There is a backing plate with a raised portion to enable acceptance of 7/8&quot; wheels. However, THREADED 7/8&quot; accessories won&#039;t work. I bought mine for wood carving with a Lancelot, which has a 5/8&quot; arbor hole, which is very thick, and which required me to pull off the backing plate. Said plate is hard to remove (very tight fit; requires pliers) and first-time users might not even know that it is removable. 
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;I&#039;ll write more later; just thought I should get this on the record in case someone needs to know, as it&#039;s not explained well in the manual. I&#039;ve only had this thing a short time; so far, so good. No reason not to give it 5 stars if it pans out.
&lt;br /&gt;
Rating: 4 / 5</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The grinding wheel that comes with it has a 7/8&#8243; arbor hole, but the grinder arbor is 5/8.&#8221; There is a backing plate with a raised portion to enable acceptance of 7/8&#8243; wheels. However, THREADED 7/8&#8243; accessories won&#8217;t work. I bought mine for wood carving with a Lancelot, which has a 5/8&#8243; arbor hole, which is very thick, and which required me to pull off the backing plate. Said plate is hard to remove (very tight fit; requires pliers) and first-time users might not even know that it is removable. </p>
<p>I&#8217;ll write more later; just thought I should get this on the record in case someone needs to know, as it&#8217;s not explained well in the manual. I&#8217;ve only had this thing a short time; so far, so good. No reason not to give it 5 stars if it pans out.<br />
<br />
Rating: 4 / 5</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I cut through a concrete wall with wire/steel running through it? by Peter W</title>
		<link>http://grindertools.info/1790/how-do-i-cut-through-a-concrete-wall-with-wiresteel-running-through-it/comment-page-1/#comment-1888</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter W</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Aug 2010 19:14:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">#comment-1888</guid>
		<description>You should do a core-cut. The least damage to the concrete will be done that way and you can control the location and size of the cut most easily. 

But, if this is a post-tensioned or pre-tensioned structure (rather than pre-cast or cast-in-place), then you will not want to cut any &quot;tendons&quot; (rather than rebar) as you will weaken the wall structure. The chances are slim that you have to worry about tendons - but if you do, the consequences of cutting them without planning can be nasty. You may need to check with the Manager or builder to know what kind of system was used.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You should do a core-cut. The least damage to the concrete will be done that way and you can control the location and size of the cut most easily. </p>
<p>But, if this is a post-tensioned or pre-tensioned structure (rather than pre-cast or cast-in-place), then you will not want to cut any &quot;tendons&quot; (rather than rebar) as you will weaken the wall structure. The chances are slim that you have to worry about tendons &#8211; but if you do, the consequences of cutting them without planning can be nasty. You may need to check with the Manager or builder to know what kind of system was used.</p>
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